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Penmaen Head
A current overview (23/10/08) by M. Doyle
Development of this crag complex is now substantially complete.
There are 7 separate sectors which can be accessed via the public footpath at the top layby parking by the Gladedale apartment development which replaced the hotel 70 degrees.
My personal involvement has been with 29 routes listed below mainly on Flowstone and Expressway Walls.
Norman Clacher has been involved in developing the great majority of the other routes and on Penmaenrhos Wall particularly. The total route tally is currently 57.
Some lower-off bolts are already showing signs of wear especially where they are shared by routes.
Please use you own quick draws for lowering off as much as possible (last person threads) to minimise wear.
After a clean up by the CMC the place is looking clean and attractive. Please take your litter home and pick up any you see. Thanks.
There is no loose rock on any of the routes I.ve been involved in. The .stuck-on holds. are actually quite sound and have had some heavy use. They also give some of the routes their character.
A guide book will be produced by myself for Ground Up Publications which will also include other local developments.
It is not possible to be objective when grading routes when so closely involved in cleaning and working them so feedback on grades is welcome as is feedback on quality and any other issues.
mjdoyle1@yahoo.com
Max length of routes - 20 metres.
Sectors are listed R . L as you go down the steps from the lay-by.
PENMAENRHOS WALL.
L to R:
1. 6b+Start 1m left of grotty corner.
2. 6b+ Through bolts / hangers.
3. 6bStart below small overhang
4. 6a+ The left, wider crack.
5. 6b
6. 6a The right crack.
7. 6c Uses one of the hangers on route 8.
8. 5+ R . L rising traverse. Through bolts / hangers.
9. 5+Through bolts / hangers.
10. 6b+Start at the stepped ledges. High first bolt.
11. 7a+
12. 6cStart 3m left of arete.
13. 6cJust left of ar te.
14. 5 Start at foot of arete.
15. 6a+Start in middle of wall
16. 6cStart up left of the arete
17. 5The obvious corner.
FLOWSTONE WALL
L to R:
1. 6a
2. 5+
3. 5
4. 6a+ Harder at start since a hold broke off.
5. 6b
6. 6a Up the Flowstone veneer. DMM eco bolts.
7. 6a+ Start left end of ledge.
8. 6b,Reachy.
9. 6b+
10. 6a The big flake and overhang.
11. 6a+
12. 6b+The overhanging flowstone flutings.
The following routes share lower offs; Routes 1,2,3. Routes 5,6,7. Routes 8,9.
RED WALL
L . R:
1. 6a
2. 6b+
3. 6b+
4. 6b
QUARRY WALL.
L . R:
1. 6a+
2. 6a+
WEN WALL
L to R: 2 sets of lower-offs accessed from the ledge.
1. 6a
2. 6c
3. 6b+
4. 6a
5. severe
RAILWAY TUNNEL WALL
L . R. The first 2 routes top out up the bank and a sling on an iron spike at the bottom
of Expressway Wall is used to lower off. Route 3 tops out and a long sling is used over
a substantial piece of iron just over the lip to lower off. Walk around to retrieve.
1. 6a
2. 6a+
3. 6a
4. 6a+ Start at the large flake.
5. 6c
6. 7a
There is a low level V3 traverse below these routes.
EXPRESSWAY WALL
Above Railway Tunnel Wall. L - R:
1. 6a Move L to the ar te after the 1st bolt.
2. 6c Move up just left of the 2nd bolt.
3. 6c Pumpy.
4. 6b+ The prow direct.
5. 6b Finish R of prow on slab.
6. 6a+ Up to groove.
7. 6a+ The vague central groove. Start at the iron spike.
8. 6c+ Upper section thin and technical. Finish up groove.
9. 6b+Trend R with steep finishing moves up crack.
10. 6b Trend R to step R into corner at bottom of the steep groove.
11. 6a+ As for route 10 to the corner then the RH crack line.
These routes share lower offs: 1&2 6&7 8&9. Routes 8 & 9 share the same start.
Routes 10 & 11 share the same start. Route 8 is direct and route 9 trends right from the 3rd bolt.
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