Morrocco: Todra Gorge Sport (and trad!) climbing trip.
The Todra Gorge is among the most dramatic sights you can see in Morocco. The cut through the mountain narrows at some points to a 10 metre wide passage beneath 300m walls. Sun only accesses the bottom of the gorge, where a ice-cold river flushes through, in the morning. Tinerhir sits upon a spot of green in the oasis-speckled Dades Valley. Famous for it’s palmeries, it is also the launching pad for the Todra Gorge. This has turned the dusty town into an important staging post and with the first sight of the entrance to the gorge you know why. It is immensely impressive, even climbers experienced in stunning rock-architecture gasp at first sight: the brown limestone walls rise 300 metres above the stream, the echoes of jeeps and mules and excited children reverberate around the walls, the tall green palm trees at the mouth of the gorge dwarfed by the towering gateway, it all makes for an impressive spectacle.
There are over 400 routes on 40 Sectors. The quality and variety is unsurpassed in such a small area and the potential for further development is mind-boggling. On the left as you enter the gorge is the amenable Plage Mansour section with its fine collection of easy (F5s and low F6s) all a stone’s throw from the climbers doss spot Hotel Mansour. Then you get to the Pilier de Couchant. This is the most compelling line in the Gorge proper and at a full 9 pitches on the classic left hand line - none harder than 6a+ - is a grand day out. Further still is the delectable Petite Gorge, probably the best area of Todra and 20 minutes from the hotels. A combination of fine rock, fine routes, fine views and relative solitude creates a winning cocktail. A good selection of F5s and F6s occupy the north side whilst the south caters for F6s and F7s.
Prices are expected to be reasonable. It would seem essential to spend the night in Marrakesh ready for the 5 - 8 hour journey by Grande taxi (£24) to the gorge the next day. A similar stop on the way back will be necessary and part of the trip. We have been offered a good rate at the hotel Valentine at the mouth of the gorge at 15 euros per night, half board . The guide book is produced and sold by a local guy and therefore is always up to date and in your language. There is plenty of information on the internet.
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. Enquiries to Mike Doyle Please.
http://www.bookryanair.com
http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Articles/TodraGorge/TodraTopos.shtml
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=766
http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/features/moroccangold246/
http://www.redpointclimbingcentre.co.uk/ViewArticle.aspx?id=b0c0bea6a9bd47449dfd8109a6c42df5
